Ballybunion is a beautiful coastal town located in north Kerry, along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. With stunning scenery, historic landmarks and world-class golf courses, it’s a popular holiday destination. Luckily for me, it’s also where my dad’s family are from, so we have had plenty of reasons to visit over the years.
Growing up, we spent two weeks in Ballybunion every summer and didn’t realise just how good we had it. Days were spent on the family farm with cousins and spending every penny we could get, on the bumper cars, slot machines and enormous 99s. On hot summer days we’d squeeze in between the striped windbreakers on the beach and spend all day swimming, exploring rock pools and caves and eating sand-coated Choc Ices!
When to Visit
Like many coastal towns in Ireland, Ballybunion is very much a seasonal destination. In summer the place is buzzing but if you visit outside peak times you will have a very different experience. Many of the shops, accommodation and attractions close for winter, so just be aware that there won’t be as much going on.
Things usually start opening up around April and get steadily busier heading into summer. I know I’m biased but when the sun is shining, there’s no better place to be. However, even in the height of summer the breeze can be very chilly and the evenings especially can be very cold.
My mam used to curse the biting wind, which at times resulted in us abandoning the beach even on the sunniest of days. I guess it’s not called the Wild Atlantic Way for nothing. So regardless of what the forecast says, always bring layers. Always!
Where to Stay
The Cliff House Hotel is in a great location, overlooking ladies beach and just across the road from the cliff walk. If the budget allows, go for a room with a sea view and balcony to make the most of your prime position. Check availability for the Cliff House Hotel.
The Marine offers room-only accommodation and have a fab cafe and bakery onsite. Located on Sandhill Road, it’s also a great location close to the beaches, shops, pubs and amusements. Check availability for The Marine.
If you’re staying longer than a night or two or visiting with others, consider booking a holiday rental. This can work out to be better value and gives you the flexibility to self cater.
Things to do in Ballybunion
Enjoy Ballybunion’s beautiful beaches
Ballybunion has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. The two main beaches are known as Ladies Beach and Mens Beach, names that have stuck since the days when men and women used to bathe separately. Both are Blue Flag beaches and popular for swimming. The beaches are also known for their powerful waves, perfect for surfing and other water sports.
Continuing on from the Men’s Beach is Long Strand which is perfect for long walks when the tide it out. Nearby Nun’s Beach is a beautiful secluded bay which can be viewed along the cliff walk. It is located below the old convent and is said to have been used exclusively by the nuns. I’m not sure how they managed, as the only access was down the steep cliffs, but perhaps they were well able for it.
At one point, there was talk of making Nun’s Beach a nudist beach. However, it seems the council put a stop to it. No doubt the it would have increased footfall along the cliff walk!
Take a stroll along Ballybunion Cliff Walk
View of the Virgin Rock from Ballybunion Cliff Walk
Take a stroll along the picturesque cliff walk and enjoy the stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and the rugged cliffs below. The walk is only about 1.5km long and can be done in 20 to 30 mins. It’s well worth doing and there are several points of interest along the way including the Nine Daughter’s Blow hole, the Virgin Rock and the secluded Nun’s Beach.
If you’re lucky, you might even spot dolphins in the water below. They can sometimes be seen swimming on calm days. I should add that I have done this walk countless times and have never seen any. However, I’ve been told that they are frequently spotted, so I’ve clearly been extremely unlucky or need to get my eyes tested!
Relax at Collins’ Seaweed Baths
Collins’ Seaweed Baths are a popular attraction for visitors to Ballybunion. You’ll find them on the Ladies Beach and there is a small shop and tea room also. The baths were opened over 100 years ago by Thomas Collins, a local fisherman and seaweed harvester and are still operated by his family.
The seaweed is collected locally each morning and used to fill your bath. You then get half an hour to relax and soak in all the goodness. Your skin feels so silky smooth afterwards from the natural oils. The baths are also good for aches, pains and tired muscles.
If you’re going for the full tradition experience, you should end your visit with a dash into the bracing Atlantic water. Or so my aunt tells me anyway! It certainly invigorating and you can warm up with a tea or coffee afterwards. Otherwise you can head up to the Cliff House Hotel for something stronger, if needed!
Indulge in some delicious treats from The Marine
No trip to BallyB is complete without stopping into the Marine Cafe & Bakery. There’s a reason the queue is usually out the door but it moves quickly and it is worth it! Whether you fancy savouring or sweet, you’ll have no shortage of options.
The sausage rolls are a crowd favourite and always seem to sell out. There’s a great rage of scones, croissants and other pastries, as well as savouries like quiches, wraps and sandwiches. You can also grab a ready made meal or pizza to take home for later. There’s seating available indoors as well as a covered outdoor area across the road.
Shop local at The Beach Hive
The Beach Hive on Main Street stock heaps of fab locally made products. If you’re looking for a gift or reminder of your holiday, there’s plenty to choose from including jewellery, candles, soaps, seaweed baths and much more.
Owners Grainne Toomey and Emily Devine O’Brien also stock their own beautiful photography products (@graphotography) and preserves (simplydevinepreserves). They’ve also got you covered if you fancy a coffee or sweet treat.
Practice your swing at Ballybunion Golf Club
Many people visit Ballybunion for the world-renowned golf courses. Ballybunion Golf Club was founded in 1893 and is home to two golf courses, the Old Course and the Cashen Course. Both courses hug the coast and feature rolling sand dunes and views across the Atlantic.
Golf greats who have played here include Rory McIlroy and Tiger Woods. Former US President Bill Clinton visited in 1998 and there’s still a statue in town marking the occasion.
If you’re not a golfer, you can still head to the bar and restaurant at the clubhouse. Order a drink or meal and just enjoy watching other people practice their swing! The bar serves up some good food it the perfect spot to chill for a while and enjoy the views.
Embrace your inner child!
If you’re heading to Ballybunion for a family holiday, you’ll find plenty to keep the kids occupied. But why would you let them have all the fun. Young and old will have a bit of craic in the amusements. Some of the kiddy rides haven’t changed since I was a kid decades ago but thankfully there have been some updates too!
The downside is that the amusements require deep pockets, particularly if you’re funding a few kids. Head to the bingo hall located in the old cinema to stretch the funds a little further. It’s great fun and my nieces usually manage to win a prize, though it might take a collective effort to win enough tickets!
Another great option for some family fun is to head to Ballybunion Health & Leisure Centre. You can easily spend a couple of hours there, with three heated pools, including a toddler pool. There’s also a jacuzzi, steam room and sauna.
Visit nearby historic sites
From Ballybunion it’s just a short drive to some other interesting historic sites that are worth checking out:
Rattoo Round Tower – 15 mins. Rattoo Round Tower is the only surviving complete round tower in Kerry.
Carrigafoyle Castle – 20 mins. Carrigafoyle Castle is a 15th century tower-house at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary, near Ballylongford.
Tarbert Bridewell – 25 mins. Tarbert Bridewell was built in 1831 and was the county courthouse and jail for more than 100 years. You can now explore the jail cells and learn more about life in 1800s Kerry and the cruelty of the justice system.
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