Carrauntoohil – climbing Ireland’s highest peak

Carrauntoohil is Ireland’s highest peak and as such, reaching its summit tops many an Irish bucket list! It is part of the The MacGillycuddy Reeks mountain range in Co. Kerry, close to the town of Killarney.

Known as ‘The Reeks’, the mountain range includes the only three peaks in Ireland that are over 1,000 metres high. Carrauntoohil comes in at 1039m, followed by Benkeeragh at 1008m and Caher at 1001m.

Is Carrauntoohil Easy to Climb? Spoiler – NO, it’s not!

As country high points go, Carrauntoohil is not a massive one but don’t underestimate it. Carrauntoohil is a tough climb and requires a decent level of fitness and experience.

If you have climbed Croagh Patrick (764m) for instance, then you can expect Carruantoohil to be a significantly tougher challenge. For one thing you’ll be climbing for a lot longer, as well as tackling the additional elevation.

Weather conditions change rapidly and conditions in the valley are no indication of what you will encounter at the summit. Be prepared for all types of weather and ensure you have all the gear you may need in case of emergency or injury.

If you are unlucky to be caught out on the mountain and experience bad visibility, navigational skills are essential. Always let someone know of your intention to climb and when you expect to finish.

If you are an inexperienced hill climber, travelling alone or simply do not feel comfortable tackling Ireland’s highest peak yourself, it’s highly recommended that you book a local experienced guide.

Where to Stay

Carrauntoohil is located less than a half hour from Killarney, making the town a great base for your trip. There are plenty of accommodation options to choose from and endless restaurants and bars to refuel in after your hike!

Accommodation recommendations:

• The Black Sheep Hostel is an eco-friendly hostel in the centre of Killarney. The hostel is located just a short walk from Killarney National Park an they can help you organise other trips around Kerry is you are spending more time in the area.
• If you’re happy staying just a little outside the town centre then Sika Lodge B&B could be the place for you. It’s on the right side of town for Carrauntoohil, so it’s only a 20 min drive to Cronin’s Yard. And the town centre is just a 20 minute walk away. So if you’re heading out for dinner in the evening, it’s perfect for stretching the legs after your hike!

• Relax and unwind after your hike at Killarney Towers Hotel in the centre of Killarney. With a swimming pool, whirlpool and sauna and steam room, your muscles will thank you!

Parking and Start Point

The main starting point for climbing Carrauntoohil is Cronin’s Yard. This a private car park and there is a charge of €2 (coin only at the time of our visit) required to exit. As well as parking, facilities at the site include a tea room, showers, camping and pod accommodation.

Are dogs allowed on Carrauntoohil?

While you might expect that Carrauntoohil and its surrounds are located in a National Park, it you might be surprised to know that the land is privately owned. It is also actively farmed and access is only possible due to the goodwill of the various landowners. Therefore bringing dogs on the trails is strictly prohibited on Carrauntoohil. This protects livestock and ensures continued access to this beautiful area for others.

The 3 Main Routes for Climbing Routes Carrauntoohill

There are numerous different routes you can take up to the summit and down again. Each of which has their pro and cons. In order of increasing difficulty, the three main routes are as follows:

The Devil’s Ladder

The Devil’s Ladder is considered the most straightforward route to the top and is therefore the most popular. This route is about 11km and you can expect it to take 7 hours or more.

Referred to as the ‘tourist route’, the downside of its popularity is extensive erosion and the danger of falling rocks as you climb. During the fine weather and summer months this is more of an issue due to the large volume of people on the trail.

Due to the time we set off, we had the ladder all to ourselves but with a steady stream of climbers you need to be aware of those above and below you to help avoid any unintended injuries.

Consider returning via the zigzags for a bit of variety. More on this below. It also means you are not adding to traffic on the Devil’s Ladder and eliminate the risk of pushing loose rocks down on upcoming climbers.

Brother O’Shea Gulley

The route via Brother O’Shea Gulley is now one of the more popular routes to the summit of Carrauntoohil for those wanting to avoid the Devil’s Ladder. It is a strenuous route with some scrambling required.

This route can also be started from Cronin’s Yard or Lisliebane parking area. Returning by the Zig Zags this route is around 14km and expected to take 7-8 hours to complete. The route is more challenging than the Devil’s Ladder and is recommended for regular hill walkers who are comfortable with challenging and steep terrain.

Coomloughra Horseshoe Loop

This is an extremely challenging route which takes in Ireland’s three highest peaks. While it offers breathtaking views, it also requires scrambling over steep rocky ground and has sheer drops. Therefore it is only recommended for very experienced climbers. The starting point for the route differs from the above routes and begins at the Hydo Road Carpark.

The route is around 12km and takes 8 hours plus. In many stretches there is no obvious path to follow. It also takes in the exposed Benkeeragh Ridge, described as knife-edged in places. In windy or icy conditions it should not be attempted.

For more detailed information on the above routes, mountain safety tips and equipment recommendations, visit the Kerry Mountain Rescue website.

Our Experience Climbing Carrauntoohil

We arrived at Cronin’s Yard at the kinda crazy time of 2am. This was because we wanted to make it to the top of the Devil’s Ladder by sunrise. As it was almost the end of May, that meant the sun was rising at ridiculous o’clock. Luckily for us, the effort really paid off on this occasion.

Setting off from Cronin’s Yard in darkness, we followed the clear trail leading into the Hag’s Glen. There are a couple of footbridges along the way allowing you to navigate the river safely. However, further into the Hag’s Glen you still need to cross a section via stepping stones, which can be challenging in bad conditions.

After this point you will pass between two lakes, Lough Callee on the left and Lough Gouragh on the right. Continue along the main trail heading straight for the Devil’s Ladder. Getting to this point in the hike is not very strenuous. Apart from a possible tricky crossing via the stepping stones, you shouldn’t encounter any other real challenges. However, the hard work starts very soon when you reach the foot of the Devil’s Ladder section.

Climbing the Devil’s Ladder

The Devil’s Ladder is essentially a rocky gully and it’s pretty steep. The elevation gain for this section is about 270m so expect to take plenty of breathers along the way. What adds to the difficultly here are the loose rocks and cascading water. After heavy rain this can be particularly challenging. Expect climbing the Devil’s Ladder to take anywhere from 45 mins to 1hr 15mins, possibly more.

Take it slowly and check your footing, particularly if there are a lot of people climbing below you. You don’t want to inadvertently push rocks down towards them. If you’re not climbing in the semi-darkness like we were, you will want to stop now and again to admire the views anyway. They start looking more and more impressive from this point. Upon reaching the top of the Devil’s Ladder, we were rewarded with one of the most spectacular sunrises.

Last stretch to the Summit

After enjoying the sunrise and taking in the stunning surroundings, it was time to head for the summit. It’s pretty clear to see the direction you should be heading at this stage and you should also be able to make out the cross at the top of the summit. That’s as long as it is not covered in cloud, of course!

It’s a well worn, rocky trail to the top and it’s around a 1km distance. So while it’s a bit of a slog, as least you can (hopefully!) see the end in sight. The stunning views helped us push through and it wasn’t too long before we reached the giant cross which marks the summit. Yay for us, we had conquered Ireland’s highest peak. Apart from the small matter of making it back down again, that is!

First we took some time to appreciate the incredible views and have some food though. It was definitely much colder at the summit but we were very lucky with the day we got. There is a stone shelter there which I imagine comes in very handy more often than not.

Descending via the zig-zags

On the descent we started by heading back the way we had come. However, instead of taking the Devil’s ladder we continued on past it to take the Zig Zags trail down. It’s nice to get a different perspective and means you’re in no danger or harming any climbers coming up the Devil’s Ladder.

With the top of the Devil’s Ladder on your left, keep walking straight toward the peak of Cnoc na Toinne. About 250m after the peak the trail will veer to the left, taking you down the Zig Zags. The trail is quite steep and can also be loose and slippery places, so you still need to stay focused. At the foot of the mountain you’ll rejoin the main trail through the Hag’s Glen. Just retrace your steps to Cronin’s Yard from there.

How long does it take to climb Carrauntoohil?

The times mentioned for the routes above are just an indication of how long your climb may take. You will find many sites that will tell you it takes 5-6 hrs to summit Carrauntoohil but be aware that it might take you a lot longer than that. If you’re very fit and don’t spend time taking photos, resting or enjoying the views, you might do it in that time. However, from start to finish, the hike via the Devil’s Ladder and the Zig Zags took us very close to 9 hours.

In fairness, I’ll be the first to admit that I am a slow hiker.  I also take too many photos so you’ll usually find me at the back of the pack! Starting in the dark also meant we were taking things very easy in the beginning. We then spent about 45 minutes photographing and enjoying the sunrise at the top of the Devil’s Ladder and also about half an hour up at the summit taking in the amazing views and having lunch.

However, if you get lucky with the weather like we did, you might as well take your time and enjoy it. After all, it’s not a race. A friend who has climbed Carrauntoohil four times to date, has never even seen the views!

All this to say, just be prepared for the hike to take longer than you might expect. We were under no pressure due to our early start and it was still just morning when we were finishing. Make sure that you have enough time to finish before it gets dark and have a head torch just in case. Know your route, so that you have an idea of timings and how you much distance you still have to cover.

Treat yourself – it’s time to celebrate!

We all enjoy food more when we feel we’ve really earned it and after climbing Ireland’s highest peak you definitely deserve a treat. This is one of the benefits of parking at Cronin’s Yard, as the tearoom awaits at the end of your hike. The apple tart with cream came highly recommended and I have to say it did not disappoint. My only regret, is not having a second slice!

We hope you find our guide to climbing Carrauntoohil helpful. If yo have any questions or comments, please do let us know. Stay safe and happy hiking!