Devil’s Bit Loop Walk in Tipperary

The Devil’s Bit loop walk is one of those trails that should be on everyone’s list. Not only does it have a great name and back story, it promises some truly stunning scenery without too much pain. This is surely the hallmark of any great walk…in my books anyway!

The scenery is amazing from the outset and it continues for pretty much the entire walk. From open hillside to forest trail and rocky outcrop, the changing landscape makes it a walk to remember.

From the summit, you can enjoy expansive views of the Tipperary lowlands. You can also see Clare, Galway, Kilkenny, Laois, Limerick, Offaly and Waterford. To the south you can spot the Galtees, Knockmealdowns and Comeraghs. Keeper Hill is visible to the west, while the body of water to the north-west is Lough Derg.

What’s in a Name!

The Devil’s Bit is quite distinctive with its rocky outcrops separated by a large gap, making it quite easy to recognise from a distance. According to legend, the devil took a bite out of the mountain in anger, while being chased by St. Patrick. He later spat it out, where upon landing it formed the Rock of Cashel.

This might be a good time to mention that the Devils Bit mountain is made of sandstone, while the Rock of Cashel is limestone. Why let a little thing like geology get in the way of a good story though!

The mountain’s Irish name, Bearnán Éile, means ‘the gap of Éile’ or Ely, relating to the name given to the surrounding territory.

Devil’s Bit Loop Walk

The Devil’s Bit loop is a 5km trail, which is graded moderate. There are some steep parts but nothing too tough. I’m not saying you won’t be feeling it in your calves the next day, but it is well worth it!

Expect the loop walk to take between 1.5 to 2 hours. The trail is way marked by purple arrows on a yellow background. There is a bit of a gap in the signage at points (or possibly we just missed some) but it’s a straightforward enough route. So once you don’t miss the signage at the main junctions, you won’t have any problem.

If you’re short on time, or don’t want to do the full loop for whatever reason, you can shorten the walk by just climbing to the cross on the summit. This only takes about 30 – 40 minutes and then you can simply return the way you came. You’ll still take in most of the highlights and all the stunning views.

You can also extend the walk by taking in the summit of Devil’s Bit mountain, which is not part of the loop walk route. Allow for another 30 minutes or so, if adding that to the loop walk.

Trailhead and Parking

There’s a decent sized, well-maintained carpark at the trailhead in Barnane, just a 10 minute drive from Templemore. The spaces are marked and meant to count them, but there’s easily room for twenty cars, probably more. Getting there involves about 10 mins along narrow country roads (lanes) but take it nice and slow and you shouldn’t have any problem.

If you’re using Google Maps, just search for ‘Devil’s Bit loop walk car park’.  On our first visit we just entered ‘Devil’s Bit’, which was a mistake and took us to the middle of nowhere. And you really don’t want to any longer than necessary on those tiny roads!

On the Trail

One of the great things about this trail is that you get all of the climbing done at the start! You’re continually climbing for about the first third of the walk. After that, it’s pretty much a gradual walk downhill for the remainder.

The start of the hike follows a gravel trail next to sloping fields. Both times we’ve visited there have been cattle grazing in the fields and already the surrounding views are breathtaking. You’ll probably also spot some bathtubs along the way. These are for the cattle (I’m pretty sure!) and not an invitation to strip off and be at one with nature. Just over here trying to save you from any potentially embarrassing run in with the landowner. You’re welcome!

After climbing this hill you take a slight right, passing through a metal gate. Continue climbing through a section of woodland and pretty soon you will see a round tower ahead. This is one of a few points of interest along the trail.

Carden’s Folly

The tower is known as Carden’s Folly, or Rock Tower and was built to look like an ancient round tower. It is in fact a 19th century folly build by local landlord John Carden. It was part of the demesne of Barnane House, the family’s large mansion which was once located at the foot of the Devil’s Bit mountain.

Carden was, by all accounts, a bit of a shit and that’s putting it nicely. In 1854 he gained notoriety following the attempted abduction of a young women near Clonmel. He subsequently spent two years in prison. By the 1920s the family had left the house which fell into ruin. It was demolished in the 1940s.

Shrine and Altar

From the tower, continue climbing towards the mountain summit. At this point you will be able to see a shrine to the Virgin Mary ahead, situated below the mountain’s iconic gap. Each year, on a Sunday in late July mass is celebrated here.

Little Rock

Follow the trail marking to the left, climbing towards ‘Little Rock’, easily identified by the large cross at the summit. Alternatively you can continue uphill, following the trail to the highest point (479m) of Devil’s Bit mountain.  This is located on the plateau to the east of the gap, known as the ‘Long Rock’.  As noted earlier, this is not part of the loop walk, so factor in additional time to include it.

The trail up to ‘Little Rock’ gets pretty steep but there are steps, which helps, and it’s a short enough section. The loop trail kind of skirts the Rock, so just take a short detour to the top of the to enjoy the incredible views. The cross on the summit was erected in 1954 to commemorate the Marian Year. This was a year of increased devotion to the Virgin Mary, which was observed by Catholics worldwide.

Return to the trail which continues down the western slopes of the mountain. Patchwork fields and wind turbines dominate the views. You’ll also pass through a forested area before arriving back at the junction beside Carden’s Folly. At that point, just trace your steps back to the carpark.

Historic Events

In July 1832, the Devil’s Bit was the location of one of several mass meetings organised by Daniel O’Connell. Over 50,000 gathered here to to protest against tithes, a 10% tax levied on landowners by the Church of Ireland.

The Book of Dimma, an illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels was said to have been discovered in a cave on the mountain. The likelihood of this has however been disputed. Completed in the monastery of St. Cronan in Roscrea, it disappeared after the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century. It is now housed in the library at Trinity College.

Is the Devil’s Bit a dog-friendly hike?

Many online reviews state that the walks on Devil’s Bit are dog-friendly and we did see people on the trail with dogs.

However, it’s worth noting that signage in the car park states dogs are not allowed as the walk crosses private farmland and Coillte Forestry. Yet just nearby, at the start of the trail, there’s more sign attached to a gate. One sign states that dogs should be kept on a leash and a second warns ‘lands poisoned’. So, definitely some mixed messages there!

Helpful Tips for the Devil’s Bit Loop Walk

• The terrain is uneven and rocky in places, so proper footwear is recommended.
• Pack a picnic or snacks and plenty of water. It’s not a seriously long hike but it’s always nice to take a breather and make the most of the views. There are some picnic benches along the trail too.
• Don’t forget the SPF! Sore muscles are one thing but you don’t want to add sunburn to the mix.
• The trail is open to the public thanks to the kindness of the landowners. As always, leave no trace and respect property and livestock.
• Note that the trail is closed on the fourth Monday in March each year.
• For food, toilets or your post-hike coffee, nearby Templemore offers plenty of options.