Inishturk Island – wild and unspoilt beauty in Mayo

Inishturk, from the Irish Inis Toirc, meaning Island of the Wild Boar, is a wild and unspoilt island located around 15 kilometres off the coast of Mayo. Measuring 5km x 2.5km, the island is home to around 60 permanent inhabitants.

If you want to experience an authentic taste of island life, then this is the place for it. You’ll receive a warm welcome on the island, which is not overly touristy. There are no hotels, so if you stay overnight, you’ll be staying with (and supporting) local families.

Getting to Inishturk

Ferries to Inishturk depart from Roonagh Pier, about a ten minute drive from Louisburgh. The journey only takes about 50 minutes but be prepared for Atlantic swells, especially in stormy weather. Unfortunately. I am speaking from personal experience on that front. My initial relief that the ferry wasn’t cancelled, quickly faded during the crossing as I threw up multiple times.

To be fair, I’m rubbish on boats at the best of times. Nobody else on the ferry (mainly islanders returning for the long weekend) seemed bothered in the least. Thankfully I was staying on the island for a few nights, so I didn’t have to face the return journey for a while! As it turned out, it was smooth sailing on the way back anyway.

Ferries to the island operate year round, with additional services added during the summer season. Check the Inishturk Passenger Ferry website for current schedules and pricing.

History of the Island

Inishturk has been inhabited on and off since 4000 BC, with continuous settlement from at least the 1700s. The island’s archaeological treasures include the remains of Bronze Age beehive huts and a 16th-century church.  A Napoleonic signal tower, constructed in 1805, stands atop the island’s highest point, offering panoramic views of the Atlantic.

The island has a history of emigration since the famine, with families departing for England and America. While Irish would have been the predominant language at the beginning of the 20th century, the islanders are now English speaking.

Where to Stay

As I mentioned above, if you stay overnight on Inishturk, you will most likely be staying with locals. There are just two B&Bs on the island offering rooms for visitors. In recent years, the addition of two self-catering holiday homes has provided another option on the island. Details of the island’s accommodation options can be found on the official Inishturk Island website.

I stayed at Ocean View House B&B run by Mary & Bill Heanue. Mary’s daughter Bríd was at the harbour to greet the ferry and take me to the B&B, just a short distance away. After a warm welcome, including tea and homemade scones, the journey over was almost forgotten. Almost!

Things to see and do on Inishturk

Despite the rocky start and a weekend that unfortunately turned out to be a bit of a washout weather-wise,  I loved my time on Inishturk. The scenery is just incredible and everyone is so friendly and welcoming. It’s definitely somewhere I plan to return to.

While it is possible to see a lot on a day trip to the island, I would recommend staying overnight and taking your time exploring.  After all, part of the appeal of visiting the islands is the slower pace, so why rush it?

Explore Inishturk’s loop walks

The best way to take in the scenic and heritage delights of Inisturk is to head off on one of the island’s looped walks. Inisturk has two main walking loops:

Lough Coolaknick Loop – this 5k loop trail starts and ends at the pier. It’s graded easy and takes in many of the islands highlights. Allow 90 minutes to 2 hours to complete the trail. Though it will likely take much longer as you linger to appreciate the views.

Mountain Common Loop: graded moderate, this 8km walk also begins and ends at the pier. It includes most of the Lough Coolaknick loop but branches off from the lough, leading you to the island’s sea stacks and cliff walk. This part is off road and a little more strenuous. Allow 2.5 to 3 hours to enjoy it at a leisurely pace.

Join in the craic at the Inishturk Community Club

Inisturk Community Club is at the heart of island life. Officially opened by President Mary Robinson in 1993, it’s a bar, restaurant, community centre and shop, all rolled into one. Grab a pint, meet the locals and learn about life on the island while trading news and life stories!

During the summer season there’s plenty of entertainment too, with the island hosting many trad musicians. Caher View Dining opens for the season, serving up lunch and dinner with the freshest seafood and locally sourced produce.

Take some time to appreciate the Tale of the Tongs

Tale of the Tongs is a beautiful installation which was created by a team of US architecture students during The Gathering Ireland 2013. It was inspired by the families who left the island and represents the global Irish diaspora. It is both a spiritual and cultural focus point on the island, part shrine, part viewing point or resting place.

Legend has it that emigrants would use tongs to carry a piece of coal to their relative or loved one’s home before departing. The idea was that when they returned, they would retrieve the tongs and coal to rekindle their fire once again.

The location of the installation and the views from there are pretty spectacular. It certainly provided a most welcome shelter for me between downpours too.

Climb to the highest point on the island

The summit of Knoclackan Mountain is the highest point on the island. Located on the north side of the island, it can be reached by climbing the steep slope from Lough Coolaknick. You’ll be able to spot the ruins of the Napoleonic Signal Tower on the mountain top. There is also a well-preserved lime kiln nearby and superb views from the summit.

The signal tower was one of 81 towers built between 1804 and 1806 in response to the threat of a French invasion. Following Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo in 1815 the threat faded and the towers were eventually abandoned.

Take a dip at one of the island’s beaches

As I visited during a stormy weekend March, swimming was not on my list of things to do on Inisturk. However, the eastern shores of the island does feature two pristine beaches, Tránaun and Corraun. These secluded coves, with crystal-clear waters, are perfect for swimming when the weather is a little more favourable! They also offer stunning views across to May and the Connemara Mountains.

While my photo won’t entice you, check out other images online to see how idyllic the beaches really are. The beaches are also conveniently located close to the community centre. So if you do need a warming drink afterwards, you won’t have far to go.

Visit Port an Dún (Portdoon Harbour)

Port an Dún, the island’s first harbour, is a natural lagoon. It has a narrow entrance, so is only accessible to small boats and curraghs. The harbour is tidal and is a popular spot for pier jumping and swimming during high tide.

The harbour gets its name from a 9th century Viking fort (dún in Irish) used by raiders. According to local legend, the Danish pirates brewed a prized heather beer here. When Irish forces captured the fort, they bargained with the last survivors, a father and son. In exchange for the secret recipe their lives would be spared. Instead, the old pirate requested his son’s execution and then plunged into the sea, taking the secret with him.

Enjoy some stargazing

Mayo enjoys some of the most pristine skies in the world.  Out on the island, with minimal light pollution, you’re in for a real treat on clear nights. You’ll have the opportunity to see not only thousands of stars but planets, meteor showers and the Milky Way, all with the naked eye. So don’t forget to look up and experience the vastness of our universe.

Check out the impressive GAA pitch

Given the outrageously beautiful scenery on the island, it may not come as a surprise that is home to a seriously good looking GAA pitch. Well technically it’s not a GAA pitch, it’s a Community Activity Pitch. The sports field and dressing rooms are open to the general public for a variety of activities. It’s also available for private training sessions or team-building activities. I’m just not quite sure how participants – or spectators for that matter – stay focused with such distracting surroundings!

You might be lucky enough to catch a game in play during your visit. If not, it’s just a treat to seat there and take in the views for a while.

Sea Stacks and Cliff Walk

One of the most spectacular viewpoints on the island is overlooking the renowned sea stacks on the north west of the island. Named Buachaill Mór (Big Boy) and Buachaill Beag (Little Boy), you can reach them by following the Mountain Common Loop Walk. From the viewpoint you can also follow a trail along the cliffs to enjoy the dramatic scenery.

I’m embarrassed to admit that after spending two fulls days on the island, I didn’t even make it the cliffs. However, we don’t judge (ourselves!) here. In fairness, I did attempt it on day two but the driving rain and strong winds got the best of me. Instead I took my soggy self to the safety of the Community Club instead and enjoyed every minute of it. I’m also not too sad about having another reason to return to Inishturk.

Final Thoughts

More than just an island, Inishturk is a living testament to the enduring power of human connection and beauty of the natural world. Whether you visit to hike its trails, delve into its legends, or simply enjoying the warm hospitality of its residents, Inishturk offers an unforgettable experience. Don’t let a little seasickness deter you. This hidden gem is well worth the voyage.